Showing posts with label Cathedrals and Abbeys. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cathedrals and Abbeys. Show all posts

Thursday, 12 September 2013

Old St Paul's Cathedral


Old St Pauls was the medieval predecessor of Sir Christopher Wrens current classical masterpiece. The cathedral of St Paul has been at the heart of life in London for over 900 years, although there has been a church dedicated to St Paul the apostle since the start of the seventh century on Ludgate Hill. The history of St Paul's can be split into three key stages which are: Early history, decline and Post fire of London. Old St Pauls is the only medieval cathedral (which survived the medieval age) to be entirely destroyed in England.

The cathedral was begun in 1087 after a fire of the same year destroyed the Anglo-Saxon Cathedral, along with much of Anglo-Saxon London. Construction of a much larger cathedral began, although another fire in 1136 hindered its progress. Most of the Cathedral which survived into the seventeenth century dated from the period between the twelfth and thirteenth centuries. At the first stage of competition the cathedral was Norman in character, the nave (which was the major Norman wok to survive later additions) was 12 bays long and could be compared in appearance to the style of Durham with rounded arches held with large columns. In the subsequent centuries the cathedral was greatly enlarged and added to, a major period of rebuilding was in the late fourteenth century. The most notable of the fourteenth century additions was the thin needle spire which was constructed on top of the tower. The spire measured 489 feet high and was 85 feet higher than Salisbury, making it the tallest in the world. Also built in the fourteenth century were the cloisters and the chapter house. The main cloisters were unusual as they consisted of two stories, making them quite unique in England. The chapter house of 1332 is believed by some to be the earliest use of Perpendicular Gothic in England and well before the construction of the famous cloisters at Gloucester. The Norman east end was demolished some time between the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries as it was considered too small and a new choir was added much enlarged built in the latest modern Gothic style. The new choir was double the size of the one it replaced which made the cathedral some 585 feet long, larger than the current cathedral and made it one of the longest in the world at the time.

In 1561 the decline of the cathedral began when a fire destroyed the great spire. The spire which was believed to be struck by a lighting strike caught on fire and fell, coming crashing down onto the roof below. After the event the roof was restored but the spire was not. This event marked the turning point in the cathedrals fortunes as it set in to a long period of decline and neglect. Henry VIII dissolution of the monasteries lead to further decline in the fortunes of the cathedral as the monastic buildings such as the cloister and chapels along with the shrines which pilgrims visited were all destroyed. The cathedral was also stripped of its decoration and its famous glass was destroyed. These events only a couple of years apart had a devastating impact on the building. After the reformation when large ceremonies became less frequent the cathedral became less important after and was no longer maintained with such care. The cathedral became generally less visited by worshipers and pilgrims although the outdoor pulpit of St Paul's cross still attracted large audiences in the cathedral close. The grand nave was known as 'St Paul's walk' in which gentleman assembled to exchange news as well as buy products as it was home to many markets. After the reformation the cathedral was used for more secular uses with many shops crowded into the cathedral close. The close was said to have the largest concentration of bookshops anywhere in London. 

The old cathedral had many features of particular note. One was the great rose window on the east facade of the Cathedral which was filled with some impressive stained glass. The central tower too should be noted as it dominated the London skyline for some 400 years. 

There was a slight upturn in fortunes for the cathedral in the early seventeenth century as a restoration project was planned by the famous architect Indigo Jones, perhaps the most important restoration project of the old cathedral. It had been in a bad state of repair after years of neglect since the Tudor times. James I tried in 1608 to force a restoration of the cathedral onto those responsible, however, it was only in 1628 that the bishop Laud finally collected the necessary funds for the restoration and finally work began. Jones was commissioned in 1634 to produce a detailed survey of the building of which many of his drawings survive. From 1634 he was placed in charge of the restoration work to St Paul's. The Gothic choir and chancel were carefully restored but the Norman parts including the nave were re-cased in a classical rusticated manner, reflecting the fashion of the day. At the west end he erected a grand classical facade with a 56 ft high Corinthian portico of 10 columns, framing the portico on either side were two towers (shown above©)The south tower was a re-cased tower of the medieval parish church of St-Gregory-by-St Paul's. Indigo Jones was forced to keep the church after much protest when it began to be demolished. This addition was relatively undamaged by the great fire but was nonetheless demolished along with the rest of the cathedral. At the outbreak of the English civil war in 1642 restoration work was halted with much of Indigo Jones restoration plan still yet to be implemented. 

During the civil war the cathedral further deterioration due to its occupation by unsympathetic parliament forces where it had been badly treated, sometimes deliberately. The overall state of the building and its medieval fabric was unsound and the central tower looked to in a state of impending collapse. The tower had been previously been shored up several times already to prevent its short term collapse, it was in need of serious structural work to save the deteriorating tower. The architect Sir Christopher Wren (architect of the new St Pauls) had been concerned about St Paul's for many years, returning from one of his trips abroad he became immediately involved in the discussions on the essential restoration of the cathedralThe dire state of the building was obvious to everyone at the time who visited it and it increasingly became an embarrassment to many in London as its mighty cathedral was in serious danger of collapse.

In 1663 a commission was set up to oversee the restoration of the cathedral. Its primary step was to obtain a report form the survey-general sir John Denham. He concluded that the demolition of the nave and tower was needed but the rest of the church could be maintained. However, the commission did not act on advice as it was keen to secure further opinions. The architect Roger Pratt suggested leaving the building well alone allowing it to deteriorate on its own accord and waiting for the tower to collapse instead of paying for it to be demolished. Finally Wren was asked to report, he agreed that the tower should come down and cited the reconstruction of crossing on new lines with a classical dome as the focal point. In 1666 Wren put forward a design in which he re-cased the exterior in classical form stating it should be 'after a good roman manner' and also  comprehensively modernised the cathedral with the introduction of classical windows and heavy cornices. In a meeting in August of the same year many influential figures of the cathedral met including the bishop, Pratt and Wren. Pratt objected to Wrens proposals predominantly on the ground of cost but was overruled. Wrens plan was initially agreed to and work was ready to begin as soon as funds could be raised. Six days later the great fire began to burn.

The fire did considerable damage to the cathedral, destroying most of the east side including the great rose window and the recently restored choir. It also finally brought the tower crashing down. The nave was mostly unaffected as was the new west end and both remained in a relatively stable condition. Thus the fire did not automatically mean a total re-building was required, just a more radical restoration. Wren was asked to report the condition of the cathedral, in his report he  reluctantly cited to compromise to agree to only demolish what was left of the choir and the tower. his suggestion was adopted.  If all had gone as planned today we would have had some of the Old nave of the cathedral. However in 1668 when building began to get underway masonry fell from the nave through the aisle vault bringing down more masonry. The building was in danger of further damage and the collapse led to an agreement of a total demolition. The remains of the cathedral were demolished using Gun powder as the stones had been smoldered together with lead. England's first and only classical cathedral was begun to the design of Christopher Wren. 

Very little of the old cathedral survived but perhaps the pieces of greatest significance are the monuments. In the crypt of the cathedral is a small number of monuments pre-dating the current building grouped together. The monuments which survived the fire can be identified by the damage they have sustained, many of the figures have legs and arms missing, most of the damage would have been sustained from the turbulent years of the seventeenth  century before the fire- mostly from the civil war. The best of the only a handful of monuments which survived the fire is the poets John Donne shown above©. From 1631, it shows the poet wrapped in a sheet and standing on a urn under a Romanesque arch. If you look under the urn a trace of the destruction of the fire can be seen in the form of faint scorch marks. Much of the new cathedral was built using rumble from the old cathedral to save in the cost of materials. Underneath the precisely cut pieces of Portland stone are thousands of pieces of old St Paul's. 


There are many images of old St Pauls, in various panoramas of London as well as architectural drawings of the church. There are also two models of the cathedral which I know of. One is in the crypt of the new cathedral while the other is in the museum of London's 'Medieval London' area pictured left  

Although it is perhaps unfortunate that nothing of the old medieval cathedral is still standing, In my opinion the current cathedral is an improvement from an over restored and mutilated cathedral. There would be very little historical fabric left after the restorations and damage it had sustained. St Pauls cathedral is unique in England as a classical cathedral and despite the loss of such a medieval masterpiece as old St Pauls I am much more in love with Christopher Wrens image for St Pauls. If one wants to see a medieval cathedral worthy masterpiece there is always Westminster abbey. 


© New St Pauls is the fifth church on the site at Ludgate hill.

Wednesday, 19 June 2013

Brief history of St Bartholomew-the-Great

The church of St Bartholomew-the-great is one of the oldest parish churches in London and can boast some of the best Romanesque work in the capital. Building began in 1123 with the construction of the Norman chancel and apse of the church, it is the work of this period which has left the largest legacy for the building. The church is certainly a lucky survivor, it could well have been lost at the dissolution if it had not be converted into a parish church, the great fire did not travel as far north as the church and the bombs of the second world war which obliterated the nearby Barbican area and St Giles church thankfully missed much of the Smithfield area. Its survival means it is still one of the most atmospheric churches in London with a fascinating history.

From 1230 the transepts and crossing were added along with a great nave. The transepts survive to this day but most of the nave was lost during the dissolution in the 16th century. After the dissolution the priory was converted into a parish church for the local area. Although the great nave was lost and the transepts were exposed and degraded into a ruinous state many of the monastic buildings were not destroyed such as the lady chapel (which was turned into a private house) and much of the cloisters (of which a fragment still survives). The south end of the nave was sold to construct a private house which incorporated part of the 13th century south door in the gateway of St Bartholomew-the-Great. The area between the church and the gateway was partly used as a burial ground but was also sold for development. The current tower was added in 1638 between the north transept and the one remaining bay of the great nave as a grander entrance to the building. 

Inside the church, the apse and the chancel (shown left©) displays some of the best Norman work in London if not the south east of England. The east end of the church is most impressive due to the size and scale of the Norman work with a triforium and a clerestory (two stages respectively) above the chancel arcade which give it a sense of grandeur lacking in many of the cities medieval churches. When the triforium and the chancel arcades are viewed together they create one of the most impressive portraits of Norman architecture in the country. The east end of the church is without doubt spectacular, but the west end by the crossing, is awkward and disappointing. The destruction of the nave has given the church a strange shape with all the emphasis on the east end of the building. The church would be much more aesthetically pleasing with with the old nave rather than the bland and over sized organ which now dominants the west end. The cloister off the north transept is an interesting but unfortunately much restored fragment of the monastic past of the church (only part of one side remains).



The church was restored several times during the Victorian era first in 1860 and secondly in 1886 by the architect Aston Web (who would go on to design the iconic but dull facade of Buckingham palace in 1913). Both restorations were relativity sympathetic to the church -unlike many in the city during this time. Inside the most obvious outcome of the works was the restoration of the apse which had been dissected with a flat wall at some point probably in the seventeenth or eighteenth century. The wall was removed and the original curve reinstated. Thus the restoration did make a positive contribution to the building as (I am sure most would agree) the east end is much more pleasant after the restoration. The stark contrast in appearance before and after the restoration can be seen in the two pictures above©. An external addition to the building was a new entrance porch at the base of the tower which was by Aston during his restoration. 

EndNote
This building is of person importance to me. It was visiting this building which first gave me the inspiration to write this blog, my first post was of the gatehouse which leads into the church. This is a post I have wanted to write for some time but I hadn't got round to before as I have kept finding new fragments of the medieval city which interest me (not to say there are no more fragments of medieval London to discover, on the contrary). Before visiting the church I knew little of the medieval legacy of the city which I have cataloged in this blog, it was a genuine moment of enlightenment. Before my visit I assumed like many others that there was nothing left of the medieval city after the fire, bombing and demolition of the last 400 years or so. I hope this blog has inspired others to investigate and research the rich legacy of medieval buildings in London.

Thursday, 31 January 2013

Church of St John of Jerusalem

Very little remains above ground of the once great priory church of St John of Jerusalem. The church has had a very colourful history being owned by many different religious and secular groups. St John of Jerusalem was founded by an order of solider monks who built forts and hospitals in the holy land in the year 1145 when ten acres of land was given to them near Clerkenwell just outside the city the London. It was here where they built their priory church, the design of the church was similar to the Temple church off fleet street having a round nave and small rectangular chancel. St Johns also had a crypt beneath the chancel which survives to this day. The priory church was built chiefly in the twelfth century but with some later additions with the nave being replaced with a more conventional rectangular one. Later a tower was added in the north west corner of the building. 

In 1381 Wat Tyler on his way to Smithfield to meet the king during the Peasants Revolt set fire to the church. The building was quickly rebuilt afterwards and continued to be used by the the order until the dissolution of monasteries. The dissolution in 1540 dissolved the order of St John and demolished all structures except the chancel. 

After the destruction of the dissolution the church was used for secular use becoming an office, the Master of the Revels which licensed plays including those of Shakespeare. The building was however quickly reverted back to religious use as a chapel and in the early eighteenth century it is recorded as being a Presbyterian meeting house. In 1721 it was bought and was mostly rebuilt giving it much the appearance it has today. In the late nineteenth century at the church above was 'restored' by the Victorians taking out many Georgian additions. From the same restoration project the twelfth century under the chancel was restored and cleaned and converted into a chapel. The church became the parish church of St John for some years until 1921 when it was given to the new order of St John of Jerusalem who used it as their chapel. During the Second World War the church was badly bombed, by the end of the war it was left a blackened shell. The order of st John restored and rebuilt the church afterwards, although not to original designs. One new positive feature is the cloister garden built in the 1950's. 

Unfortunately the church today is in my view a rather ugly mess of restoration and post war rebuilding. However, the twelfth century crypt (pictured left ©) survived the disasters inflicted on the church and is one of the most atmospheric and authentic medieval crypts in London and is well worth a visit. Another remnant of the priory church is St Johns gate which was originally the gateway to the priory. St Johns gate is just to south of the church on the road to Smithfield. 

First Picture © showing church post-war plans for the church. More information including opening hours at http://www.museumstjohn.org.uk/your_visit/index.html

Friday, 3 August 2012

Brief history of Southwark Cathedral


Southwark cathedral is one of London's oldest Gothic buildings and is one of the few churches in London of the early English style (only other example is the temple church which is of a transitional period). It began life as a priory founded in 1106 by two Norman knights known as St Mary's Overie, The latter part of the name meaning St Mary's over the water (to London). In 1212 there was a devastating fire and the priory was mostly rebuilt in the early English Gothic style. After the dissolution of the monasteries the church was renamed St Saviour and remained royal property until it was bought by a group of merchants in 1611. It was a parish church since the reformation and a cathedral since 1905. 

The new London bridge of the 1830's played a pivotal role in the history of the cathedral. The bridge committee wanted to demolish the entire church and rebuild it smaller further west as London bridge was moved closer to the church. However, after much debate and persuasion the decision was finally taken to restore the church. Despite the church being saved it would lose much of its medieval fabric, first the lady chapel (to the east of the church) was demolished for the new approach to London bridge and also in the 1830's the nave was pronounced unsafe. By the early nineteenth centuey most of the church was in a poor state and at risk of collapse. Its savior was the young George Gwilt who strengthened the tower in 1818 and in 1821 restored the chancel and the retro-quire. The crumbling thirteenth century nave was in dire need of restoration, although it was decided to demolish it instead, using a unorthodox method of demolition they took off the roof leaving it exposed to the elements for 8 years. After the nave had degraded to a ruinous state they blew what remained of it up. They then employed Henry Rose to build a Gothick (not a misspelling) nave which so horrified people no records of its design were kept and it was demolished in less than a century. In 1890 the present nave was completed by Sir Arthur Bloomfield, as a close copy to what once stood for hundreds of years in an early English style. 


The building has fragments from each period of medieval architecture in England. In the wall of the north transept are fragments of the original Norman monastery. The church is dominated by the Early English style which is evident in the chancel and the retro-quire (and the old nave). The two most distinguishing features of the church are the early English retro-quire and the Triforium (pictured left- {the arcade of arches underneath the windows}). It also has some of the Decorated style which is evident in the south transept. The church also displays the late Gothic style of Perpendicular in the tower which was built around 1400 after rebuilding from a small fire in the 1390's. Also in the church is the Victorian Gothic revival style in the nave and extensions on the north and south transepts. Although it does not have the character and age of the medieval fabric the rebuilding on the inside at least has been generally sympathetic. On the outside however, the building has been much more altered, most obviously with the black flit covering which was added in the late nineteenth century restoration.